Richard in Afghanistan Part 2

Monday 10Th
It's a nice early start to catch the 06.30 flight to Kabul so I book a wake up call for 4.15. My head is still on UK time 4 hours behind so I don't get to sleep until past 1.00. Unfortunately the hotel reception have a sleep detector device, hidden in my room, it soon alerts staff to my resting state and prompts a 3.15 wake up call. Just about to get into the shower before I realise. A stupefied zombie I arrive at airport a little late but with plenty of time. Formalities over I board the Kam Air flight with many of my sweat box buddies from the Embassy. Mercy Corps and many other ex-pat staff are now allowed to fly on the Afghan national carrier as it is deemed unsafe by the civil aviation authority, so this flight is full. We fly over Iran and the mountain terrain of southern Afghanistan, apart from sparse trees on mountain tops the only green areas are irrigated fields beside steep mountain streams dry since the snow melt. Some cultivated areas are amazingly remote. The switchback roads down the nearest habitation seem to run for ever even from 20,000 feet. Touch down in Kabul, it's nearly two years since I was here last, the military build up since then is very obvious. As we taxi to the terminal at least 10 times as much infrastructure and equipment is now on show. With all this equipment and personnel evidently pouring in, the war in the south of the country seems more present than previously. I visited Kandahar in 2006 but I'm glad not to be going down there now like the lads I met yesterday.

Feeling pensive I concentrate on the exciting new terminal building, it has a baggage carousel that works without the need for men to push the bags along but the best thing is the Foreigner Registration card is now free (instead of the deliberately inconvenient $11) AND can now be obtained from an obvious place in the airport rather than a very crowded ministry building in town. Last time this ministry had queues which would snort with derision at the so called queue of yesterday. This is real progress! There's even a picture taking service in case you don't happen to have two passport size photos. I had more than two of course and held up the line while the official and I debated which were the best.

John at Mercy Crops GDA program manager met me at the public car park which is a good distance and a couple tank traps away from the terminal. The driver radioed to a base and we set off to my modest but comfortable guest house. Ten minute kip and off for lunch with John and Humayoon Aslamy. Humayoon is an Afghan American who is one of the few people investing his own money in to Afghanistan. We first met three years ago when I visited his factory site and he showed me pictures of the military equipment a local warlord, who took over the site in the 90's, had left behind.

Fullwell Mill/Tropical Wholefoods, Mercy Crops and Humayoon's business Bagram Fruit each have a vital role in the program. Mercy Corps have provided the funding, worked through the fair trade labelling organisation's complex paperwork and organised over 300 interested farmers from several village organisations in a producer group which will be accountable, democratic and responsible for the distribution of the fair trade premium. Bagram will wash, grade and pack the raisins. We will advise on agricultural, processing, business and IT best practice, vouch for the process, import to the UK and find a market for up to 6 container loads of raisins (approximately 100 tonnes). There are no shortage of issues to discuss over lunch.

Finally get some sleep in the afternoon before an extensive e-mail session. Almonds are on the agenda among other things. Pete is reasonably optimistic that the cluster price problem can be solved. I've also got the talk about Afghan almonds while I am here. Tea and an early night.