12th August 2009
Early start to Charicar arera and a meeting to meet one of the most active lead farmers Mr. Farhim at Demulla Village. He lives with his five brothers and their families. They make 90% of their farm income from grape or raisin. He is very interested to hear again about the fair trade minimum price. This is one of the mainstays of the FT system, it is a calculation of the costs of production so that the producer can rely on an income from their efforts. If market prices are higher than the minimum that's fine but the farm gate price can never be lower than the minimum.
Unfortunately we still have no definite purchase order so I have only the assurance that they will know volumes within 7 days. They have to make a fast decision about whether to sell table grapes to merchants who have already approached them.
On to the factory where we meet the engineer who's company is doing the factory renovation. We discuss my adaptions, he's a very bright guy and he picks up the idea of people and product flow and segregation of wet and dry processing immediately. Apparently he's in much demand he's got 8 police stations on the go at the moment. The Taliban arrested him and his French business partner last year and suggested building things for the government is not something he should bother with. His business partner agreed with them and left the country. John also runs off when we get round to the main store room but does see the logic that the roof also needs to be replaced. Spending American taxpayers money is something which I would like to do more of. A bit more reconstruction after funding the biggest covert war in history and flooding Afghanistan with weapons to fight the Soviet Union and the conditions which allowed the rise of the Taliban may have been avoided.
Back to Kabul and meeting with ACAP managers of a giant USAID funded venture capital fund. A bit out of our league.
After a series of calls we find the Roots of Peace compound and meet up with Zach and Gary. I worked for RoP for two weeks in 2007 in Badakshan which is the most Northern Province in the country. I really admire the work they do, attention to detail and long term goals. They also do project work but in the background has always been the idea of helping to build a proper almond industry association in Afghanistan. They have analysed and worked on all aspects of the almond supply chain from nurseries to processing, taken best practice and looked at what can be implemented in Afghanistan. Its great to talk to Zach again I like his company and he offered me a job once, the two of them have masses of experience, information and contacts which they are very generous with. By the time we get back its 20:00. Finish email after midnight.
13th August 2009
Another good night of sleep, fantastic. I call John at 7.30 but his phone is off so get on with some e-mail, apparently one of the phone networks is down. Off to the Mercy Corps offices for a meeting to agree priorities for the next few critical weeks of the renovation and farm raisin production then back to the Kabul Inn to pack. Somehow despite only having an additional couple of KG's of raisins in my bag nothing fits. The bag has shrunk or my cold weather clothes have swelled in the heat (I have winter boots two fleeces and a water proof jacket for 3 days trekking at the end of the trip.) There is knock at the door and I am requested to go to reception. One of the GDA staff tells me I am now booked on a PIA flight to Islamabad and now have to get to the airport for 12. Instead of having lunch with John and Humayoon we collect John and whiz off to the airport. A few checks outside the terminals and we arrive at the distant car park. Apparently we are too early the PIA check in is not open so we must wait in the sun (and a poilce man makes us go back and stand behind some razor wire) when we are allowed to the terminal it is revealed I have a standby ticket. Have to sit on my bag and wait 90 mins until after 14.00 (the departure time). I was Interested to note that some people were allowed to arrive a full two hours late for the flight before PIA would consider telling them to f*** right off and turn up on time next time you b******s. The flight is 1 hour delayed its past 14.00 and the PIA staff are studiously avoiding eye contact. The UNHCR flight to Islamabad check in is next door. I couldn't get a confirmation yesterday hence the PIA ticket. I better check if the UN flight is full. No and I am on the reserve list, great. In the meantime PIA have processed my bag and ticket. Who cares I'm flying. Make way to waiting room and hear the UN flight being called. Oh that's a shame could have been on that one. I make enquiries when is the PIA flight leaving? The place is still in Islamabad is the chirpy reply. What a beastly bore I mutter to myself and take a seat in the departure lounge. We take off 4 hours late. Proof reading some snack bar wrappers for the contract manufacture part of our business and having a nice chat with a really bright and interesting 14 year old Manc/Afghan pass the time pleasantly. The only down side is that Toblerone is in my field of view. Toblerone is my least favourite confectionary product never the less I like to take photographs of airport toblerone displays and send them to an American I once met who was surprised at my vehemence. I never thought that Toblerone would reach Kabul but there it is in the shiny new duty free goods shop in the shiny new terminal. ****ing Toblerone. I bet Mullah Omah hated Toblerone if so that's one thing I'm absolutely 100% with him on. It's totally unacceptable.
Whiz through Islamabad airport arrivals in five minutes, unprecedented. The baggage carrousel starts before I get to it, amazing. Lovely Hunza Embassy Lodge have arranged a taxi to collect me and Sher Ghazi our partner in Gilgit has arranged for me to collect a ticket for the morning flight at the airport. My flight and reservation is confirmed (I think). There is high speed internet and air conditioning in the room brilliant, its much hotter and more humid than Kabul it must be 60% humidity and 35 degrees outside.
Nice pot of Pakistani tea (made with milk) and a bit of work while the room cools down. Getting comfy and thinking about the 05.30 wake up call when the city power goes off, and the generator can not run the AC. Oh dear my room is now a sauna.
We work out I need a 05.30 alarm call to catch the 08.00 flight to Gilgit but it's very late before the power comes back and I get to sleep.
14th August 2009
Ring ring
Yes
Alarm call sir.
I look at my phone - it's 4.30. Go to find night attendant.
Its 4.30
No sir 5.30
Back to room check phone setting for Pakistan time. I check computer at the top of stairs. Its definitely 4.30 I find the night attendant. Its 4.30. No sir 5.30. Its 4.30. No sir 5.30
No its 4.30
No sir. New time sir.
What?
New time sir.
New time?
Yes sir new time sir.
Apparently 6 months ago the new government decided to change from GMT + 5 to GMT +6. Grrrrrrrrrrr.
The flight to Gilgit is always touch and go, visibility is required as some of the mountains in the north are higher than the cruising altitude of the plane. It regularly turns back after take off and is even more regularly cancelled. The alternative is a road trip of at least 15 hours, this year its 21 hours as the Karakorum Highway is being improved by Chinese contractors and road works litter the northern section. August is usually a good month to fly and there has been a two week unbroken spell of good weather this year. I am on the East side flying north so miss watching the morning sun on Nanga Parbat (2nd highest mountain in Pakistan after K2). But great views to the Hindu Kush and Parmirs.
Sher meets me off the plane and we head off to the office via my hotel.
Given the economic situation we agree that the modest Riviera is more appropriate than the Serena. It's clean and cool and a quarter of the price.
Good general catch up session with Sher, Jamilla and Shaeena. We set a visit agenda and discuss new developments for Mountain Fruits and Fullwell Mill.
Its great to be back here. We finish at 13.00 back to the hotel and sleep for 4 hours....
Wednesday, 26 August 2009
Friday, 14 August 2009
Richard in Afghanistan Part 3
I know I shouldn't complain but although the room has air conditioning it only seems to have an off or an on setting. On is paralysingly cold and off is suffocatingly hot and is in turn much better than 25,000,000 Afghans have, never the less it doesn't help me get any sleep. I have to turn the air conditioning off/on during the night depending on whether I am paralysingly cold or suffocatingly hot. The paralysingly cold option is apparently unusual in Kabul city power is having an uncharacteristically long run of continuity, 12 hours in 24 is more like par for the course.
Hot water for a shower is brilliant, it thaws me out after I pass out and sleep for a full two hours on cold mode with a single sheet.
A very good visit to our processing partner Bagram Fruit's factory in Charicar (90 mins north of Kabul), the plant renovation plan is progressing well, I was able to advise on a few cost savings and alterations which make product and people separation and process flow best practice more attainable, and have good discussions with Humayoon. It's also good to spend more time with the whole Mercy Corps GDA team which includes the wonderful Amanullah, who I previously knew as a manager at Bagram Fruit.
There is a glitch at one of the raisin collection sites in that a neighbour who lives next to a piece of land which Mercy Corps have permission to build on, objects to the small structure although he can't actually see it from his walled compound. Apparently the traffic of a few farmers occasionally dropping off raisins will be a major inconvenience. Afghan NIMBYS somehow you don't expect it...
John asks me to attend a meeting with USAID who are Mercy Corps' donor on the GDA program. We pick up Mike, a Scottish Mercy Corps staffer and head to the USAID office is opposite the US embassy. The security is unbelievable, I am probably not allowed to even describe it since cars are not allowed within 200m of the actual compound and cameras are confiscated and locked away. A bag, you've got a bag, are you havin' a laugh. Jut say a lot of check points even more gentlemen with guns. The closer to the meting we got the more armed men there are. The US embassy must have more guards than staff. One of the ladies in our meeting is initially more intimidating than the guards but soon thaws when we have answers to her quite probing questions. In the end she seems a full on convert to fair trade and asks about other possibilities for Afghanistan. Although John and Mike would have also earned awards for their significant supporting parts modesty prevents etc.
I have an hour to comment on walnut and packaging problems back home by e-mail and have a shave before going out for dinner to meet Kelly, John's wife.
Hot water for a shower is brilliant, it thaws me out after I pass out and sleep for a full two hours on cold mode with a single sheet.
A very good visit to our processing partner Bagram Fruit's factory in Charicar (90 mins north of Kabul), the plant renovation plan is progressing well, I was able to advise on a few cost savings and alterations which make product and people separation and process flow best practice more attainable, and have good discussions with Humayoon. It's also good to spend more time with the whole Mercy Corps GDA team which includes the wonderful Amanullah, who I previously knew as a manager at Bagram Fruit.
There is a glitch at one of the raisin collection sites in that a neighbour who lives next to a piece of land which Mercy Corps have permission to build on, objects to the small structure although he can't actually see it from his walled compound. Apparently the traffic of a few farmers occasionally dropping off raisins will be a major inconvenience. Afghan NIMBYS somehow you don't expect it...
John asks me to attend a meeting with USAID who are Mercy Corps' donor on the GDA program. We pick up Mike, a Scottish Mercy Corps staffer and head to the USAID office is opposite the US embassy. The security is unbelievable, I am probably not allowed to even describe it since cars are not allowed within 200m of the actual compound and cameras are confiscated and locked away. A bag, you've got a bag, are you havin' a laugh. Jut say a lot of check points even more gentlemen with guns. The closer to the meting we got the more armed men there are. The US embassy must have more guards than staff. One of the ladies in our meeting is initially more intimidating than the guards but soon thaws when we have answers to her quite probing questions. In the end she seems a full on convert to fair trade and asks about other possibilities for Afghanistan. Although John and Mike would have also earned awards for their significant supporting parts modesty prevents etc.
I have an hour to comment on walnut and packaging problems back home by e-mail and have a shave before going out for dinner to meet Kelly, John's wife.
Richard in Afghanistan Part 2
Monday 10Th
It's a nice early start to catch the 06.30 flight to Kabul so I book a wake up call for 4.15. My head is still on UK time 4 hours behind so I don't get to sleep until past 1.00. Unfortunately the hotel reception have a sleep detector device, hidden in my room, it soon alerts staff to my resting state and prompts a 3.15 wake up call. Just about to get into the shower before I realise. A stupefied zombie I arrive at airport a little late but with plenty of time. Formalities over I board the Kam Air flight with many of my sweat box buddies from the Embassy. Mercy Corps and many other ex-pat staff are now allowed to fly on the Afghan national carrier as it is deemed unsafe by the civil aviation authority, so this flight is full. We fly over Iran and the mountain terrain of southern Afghanistan, apart from sparse trees on mountain tops the only green areas are irrigated fields beside steep mountain streams dry since the snow melt. Some cultivated areas are amazingly remote. The switchback roads down the nearest habitation seem to run for ever even from 20,000 feet. Touch down in Kabul, it's nearly two years since I was here last, the military build up since then is very obvious. As we taxi to the terminal at least 10 times as much infrastructure and equipment is now on show. With all this equipment and personnel evidently pouring in, the war in the south of the country seems more present than previously. I visited Kandahar in 2006 but I'm glad not to be going down there now like the lads I met yesterday.
Feeling pensive I concentrate on the exciting new terminal building, it has a baggage carousel that works without the need for men to push the bags along but the best thing is the Foreigner Registration card is now free (instead of the deliberately inconvenient $11) AND can now be obtained from an obvious place in the airport rather than a very crowded ministry building in town. Last time this ministry had queues which would snort with derision at the so called queue of yesterday. This is real progress! There's even a picture taking service in case you don't happen to have two passport size photos. I had more than two of course and held up the line while the official and I debated which were the best.
John at Mercy Crops GDA program manager met me at the public car park which is a good distance and a couple tank traps away from the terminal. The driver radioed to a base and we set off to my modest but comfortable guest house. Ten minute kip and off for lunch with John and Humayoon Aslamy. Humayoon is an Afghan American who is one of the few people investing his own money in to Afghanistan. We first met three years ago when I visited his factory site and he showed me pictures of the military equipment a local warlord, who took over the site in the 90's, had left behind.
Fullwell Mill/Tropical Wholefoods, Mercy Crops and Humayoon's business Bagram Fruit each have a vital role in the program. Mercy Corps have provided the funding, worked through the fair trade labelling organisation's complex paperwork and organised over 300 interested farmers from several village organisations in a producer group which will be accountable, democratic and responsible for the distribution of the fair trade premium. Bagram will wash, grade and pack the raisins. We will advise on agricultural, processing, business and IT best practice, vouch for the process, import to the UK and find a market for up to 6 container loads of raisins (approximately 100 tonnes). There are no shortage of issues to discuss over lunch.
Finally get some sleep in the afternoon before an extensive e-mail session. Almonds are on the agenda among other things. Pete is reasonably optimistic that the cluster price problem can be solved. I've also got the talk about Afghan almonds while I am here. Tea and an early night.
It's a nice early start to catch the 06.30 flight to Kabul so I book a wake up call for 4.15. My head is still on UK time 4 hours behind so I don't get to sleep until past 1.00. Unfortunately the hotel reception have a sleep detector device, hidden in my room, it soon alerts staff to my resting state and prompts a 3.15 wake up call. Just about to get into the shower before I realise. A stupefied zombie I arrive at airport a little late but with plenty of time. Formalities over I board the Kam Air flight with many of my sweat box buddies from the Embassy. Mercy Corps and many other ex-pat staff are now allowed to fly on the Afghan national carrier as it is deemed unsafe by the civil aviation authority, so this flight is full. We fly over Iran and the mountain terrain of southern Afghanistan, apart from sparse trees on mountain tops the only green areas are irrigated fields beside steep mountain streams dry since the snow melt. Some cultivated areas are amazingly remote. The switchback roads down the nearest habitation seem to run for ever even from 20,000 feet. Touch down in Kabul, it's nearly two years since I was here last, the military build up since then is very obvious. As we taxi to the terminal at least 10 times as much infrastructure and equipment is now on show. With all this equipment and personnel evidently pouring in, the war in the south of the country seems more present than previously. I visited Kandahar in 2006 but I'm glad not to be going down there now like the lads I met yesterday.
Feeling pensive I concentrate on the exciting new terminal building, it has a baggage carousel that works without the need for men to push the bags along but the best thing is the Foreigner Registration card is now free (instead of the deliberately inconvenient $11) AND can now be obtained from an obvious place in the airport rather than a very crowded ministry building in town. Last time this ministry had queues which would snort with derision at the so called queue of yesterday. This is real progress! There's even a picture taking service in case you don't happen to have two passport size photos. I had more than two of course and held up the line while the official and I debated which were the best.
John at Mercy Crops GDA program manager met me at the public car park which is a good distance and a couple tank traps away from the terminal. The driver radioed to a base and we set off to my modest but comfortable guest house. Ten minute kip and off for lunch with John and Humayoon Aslamy. Humayoon is an Afghan American who is one of the few people investing his own money in to Afghanistan. We first met three years ago when I visited his factory site and he showed me pictures of the military equipment a local warlord, who took over the site in the 90's, had left behind.
Fullwell Mill/Tropical Wholefoods, Mercy Crops and Humayoon's business Bagram Fruit each have a vital role in the program. Mercy Corps have provided the funding, worked through the fair trade labelling organisation's complex paperwork and organised over 300 interested farmers from several village organisations in a producer group which will be accountable, democratic and responsible for the distribution of the fair trade premium. Bagram will wash, grade and pack the raisins. We will advise on agricultural, processing, business and IT best practice, vouch for the process, import to the UK and find a market for up to 6 container loads of raisins (approximately 100 tonnes). There are no shortage of issues to discuss over lunch.
Finally get some sleep in the afternoon before an extensive e-mail session. Almonds are on the agenda among other things. Pete is reasonably optimistic that the cluster price problem can be solved. I've also got the talk about Afghan almonds while I am here. Tea and an early night.
Richard in Afghanistan
Wed 5th
Trying to get many loose ends tied up before trip to Afghanistan & Pakistan. AM checked to see if passports returned from Pak and Af embassies yet. No post had arrived at 10.30am. Forgot to re-check until 16.00, John says no passports have arrived! Called Afghan embassy polite gentleman apologised for not sending passport back as promised in the conversation he recalled of... last last Friday was it? It's on his desk but it's too late to post tonight. Similar story at Pakistani High Commission very genial official apologised profusely, visa is complete but it seemed it had not been posted on Monday as promised in Fridays e-mail. I'm Flying Saturday, flights are booked, can't risk passports not being returned on time, will have to go to London tomorrow.
Thurs 6th
06.30 train to KingsX, tube and brisk walk to Afghan Embassy. Very hot have to keep nice and polite, collect passport 1, find somewhere to have a phone conference at 11.00 and get to Pakistani High Commission by 12 to collect passport 2. Afghans polite give me passport back but refuse to give me a credit for my visa fee despite not giving me a visa and the normal price being £50 not £100 I paid for a fast track. Calm, calm, calm. Find a table at the tennis club in Hyde Park, get coffee and cake and log into phone conference re Fairtrade almonds we hope to supply to a very large company who are getting involved in fair trade. All questions are answered everything looks good just need to confirm with our partner they will be able to bring delivery forward so we can get 16 tonnes in January. Plenty of time to stroll down to Pakistan HC the helpful official calls me just as I arrive at the door so i walk in and out in 5 minutes. Back to Kings Cross and jump on the 13.30 train to Durham. On the drive home the company who will process the almond for the large company call. They have problem with the almond price can I check my quote. I check it, price still same as in April I email both for comparison and go to the pub.
Friday 7th
Get to factory early hoping for early finish travelling tomorrow but there is a 20 item to do list. I speak to our partner in Pakistan January is no problem. Revise the delivery and payment schedule and send. Try to speak to my contacts at the large company and their supplier. Some hours later I find that there has been a price error. The complicated roasted chopped cluster is now too expensive and the whole project is in jeopardy. If this does not come off it means 12 months of on and off unpaid work for us. At least I got to the bottom of the to do list (with the help of pretty much everyone in the factory).
Saturday 8th
Get to airport in good time with new pair of sandals purchased on route. Quick call to brief Peter our MD on Almonds - he has been off work since Wednesday on holiday. Catch flight to Dubai I have to stay here for two nights while the NGO we are working with get me a visa for Afghanistan. Should definitely have left it to them rather than trying to 'save time' by getting one in London.
Saturday 9th
Quick breakfast before a brief exposure to the 40 degree heat of Dubai between the hotel and taxi, whew what a scorcher but is nice and cool in the taxi. The local fixer skilfully negotiates the Afghan Embassy queue and gets me some forms to fill in, pretty painless I think but it is quite warm in this room hope this doesn't take long. After 30 minutes and several visits to the harassed official behind the counter we repair to the waiting room proper. Long thin undecorated, sticky black plastic seats and very very very hot. Its a little piece of Kabul transferred to an even hotter climate. My fixer insists that I sit down while he joins the 100 man scrum which besieges two windows staffed by underpaid functionaries. Documents are handed in at one window and a chit is handed back at the other (some hours later). It is very difficult for people to leave the front of the queue once they complete their business. Except when the crowd parts Red Sea like to allow window access to a Female NGO worker. We wait from 10.30 til 14.00. Amongst the crowd there's a group of Brits who are new recruits to a company doing close security work (convoy escorts etc). All in their 40's their military days/careers are long past, most are family men who the credit crunch has forced to fall back on skills last used in the first gulf war. Eventually we get the chit and go outside it's at least 45 degrees now. The chit has to go back to the Afghan Embassy at 1700 to be swapped for my passport. I don't have to go with it, its certainly one of those days that makes you thankful not to be a visa scrumger for soft NGO dilettantes.
Trying to get many loose ends tied up before trip to Afghanistan & Pakistan. AM checked to see if passports returned from Pak and Af embassies yet. No post had arrived at 10.30am. Forgot to re-check until 16.00, John says no passports have arrived! Called Afghan embassy polite gentleman apologised for not sending passport back as promised in the conversation he recalled of... last last Friday was it? It's on his desk but it's too late to post tonight. Similar story at Pakistani High Commission very genial official apologised profusely, visa is complete but it seemed it had not been posted on Monday as promised in Fridays e-mail. I'm Flying Saturday, flights are booked, can't risk passports not being returned on time, will have to go to London tomorrow.
Thurs 6th
06.30 train to KingsX, tube and brisk walk to Afghan Embassy. Very hot have to keep nice and polite, collect passport 1, find somewhere to have a phone conference at 11.00 and get to Pakistani High Commission by 12 to collect passport 2. Afghans polite give me passport back but refuse to give me a credit for my visa fee despite not giving me a visa and the normal price being £50 not £100 I paid for a fast track. Calm, calm, calm. Find a table at the tennis club in Hyde Park, get coffee and cake and log into phone conference re Fairtrade almonds we hope to supply to a very large company who are getting involved in fair trade. All questions are answered everything looks good just need to confirm with our partner they will be able to bring delivery forward so we can get 16 tonnes in January. Plenty of time to stroll down to Pakistan HC the helpful official calls me just as I arrive at the door so i walk in and out in 5 minutes. Back to Kings Cross and jump on the 13.30 train to Durham. On the drive home the company who will process the almond for the large company call. They have problem with the almond price can I check my quote. I check it, price still same as in April I email both for comparison and go to the pub.
Friday 7th
Get to factory early hoping for early finish travelling tomorrow but there is a 20 item to do list. I speak to our partner in Pakistan January is no problem. Revise the delivery and payment schedule and send. Try to speak to my contacts at the large company and their supplier. Some hours later I find that there has been a price error. The complicated roasted chopped cluster is now too expensive and the whole project is in jeopardy. If this does not come off it means 12 months of on and off unpaid work for us. At least I got to the bottom of the to do list (with the help of pretty much everyone in the factory).
Saturday 8th
Get to airport in good time with new pair of sandals purchased on route. Quick call to brief Peter our MD on Almonds - he has been off work since Wednesday on holiday. Catch flight to Dubai I have to stay here for two nights while the NGO we are working with get me a visa for Afghanistan. Should definitely have left it to them rather than trying to 'save time' by getting one in London.
Saturday 9th
Quick breakfast before a brief exposure to the 40 degree heat of Dubai between the hotel and taxi, whew what a scorcher but is nice and cool in the taxi. The local fixer skilfully negotiates the Afghan Embassy queue and gets me some forms to fill in, pretty painless I think but it is quite warm in this room hope this doesn't take long. After 30 minutes and several visits to the harassed official behind the counter we repair to the waiting room proper. Long thin undecorated, sticky black plastic seats and very very very hot. Its a little piece of Kabul transferred to an even hotter climate. My fixer insists that I sit down while he joins the 100 man scrum which besieges two windows staffed by underpaid functionaries. Documents are handed in at one window and a chit is handed back at the other (some hours later). It is very difficult for people to leave the front of the queue once they complete their business. Except when the crowd parts Red Sea like to allow window access to a Female NGO worker. We wait from 10.30 til 14.00. Amongst the crowd there's a group of Brits who are new recruits to a company doing close security work (convoy escorts etc). All in their 40's their military days/careers are long past, most are family men who the credit crunch has forced to fall back on skills last used in the first gulf war. Eventually we get the chit and go outside it's at least 45 degrees now. The chit has to go back to the Afghan Embassy at 1700 to be swapped for my passport. I don't have to go with it, its certainly one of those days that makes you thankful not to be a visa scrumger for soft NGO dilettantes.
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